How to not pay APR tune labor fee.

You take out your ecu out by yourself and ship it to APR headquarters. You pay 30 dollar postage and save 300 labor fee.

If you need ecu removal instruction comment your email below I will send you the instruction.

a4 b8 Fog Light / Driving Light replacement

This instruction is from audienthusiast.com (http://www.audienthusiasts.com/Project_Drivinglight.html)

If you follow the normal procedure you would take a screwdriver and lightly bend down the tabs that hold the fog light grill in place. You then remove the 2 torx screwes to gain access to the light. 

Myself like many others have used this method. I did a few times until I broke the tab on my grill because it was cold out. These are way to fragile and I think Audi did a poor job of designing them. In an effort to not have to replace one more grill I'm writing this so you have a safe way to change your bulbs in the same amount of time but with out the cost of a new or broken grill.

This is a fairly easy modification so I would rate it 2 out of 10 for difficulty.

 

Fog Light / Driving Light replacement.

Tools:

The tools you will need:

1 - T25 Screw Driver

Parts:

What ever lights your going to use to replace your current lamps

The Install

Much easier to do one side at a time so just repeat the process for which ever side your working on.

For the drivers side start the car and turn your wheel all the way to the right then turn off the car.

Go into the wheel well and remove the 2 Torx screws show. 

Pull back the wheel liner and you'll be able to see the back of the fog light. To remove the fog light simply turn the light counter clockwise. 

Now replace the bulbs with your new ones. Make sure you do not touch the glass with your fingers. It will leave oil on the surface which creates a hotspot when the light is on. This will cause the light to fail prematurely.

Put everything back and repeat for the passanger side.

Yes it's that easy.

A4 b8 ecu removal, procedure of GIAC Stage 1 tune, review of GIAC stage 1

After contemplating about ecu tuning for 6 month and waiting for the sale to start. I've done my research on many brands and finally went to IPB-autosport to get GIAC tuned(Ron and I worked togather to get this done).

My a4 is 2010 FWD so We needed to take out the ecu, heat gun the ecu to melt the glue seal, and cut the glue as we open the ecu.

so far we only took 30 minute, because surprisingly, there was no security bolts stucked in the ecu.

But longest part was to load the new software this alone took about 40 min. Wiring the ecu was quite complicated and Ron had to request the Software from GIAC via email for my own ecu. (quite surprised how they manage this. I think someone is monitoring email 24/7 it was even saturday noon. the Reply only took 2 min)

After that Ron re-seal the ecu with silicon and we put the ecu back in.

So the complete procedure took about 1 hour and 30 min and $700 flat(550 software, 150 labor no tax yay)

My local APR dealer(2bennett) quoted me for 3 hour labor LOL. They wanna milk every penny and dimes...

So for the review of GIAC tune, I actually felt not much increase of power on the first day, but after about 100 mile run, holy shit normal D gear acceleration improve to almost sports mode and even more response from sports mode. I can actually feel the power increase. I consumed 2 full tanks and I get 23 for pure local and 33~34.5 for pure highway. I got it up to 37 for highway once.

So for the instruction for removal.

I dont know if anyone want it but I will post it if someone wants it.

comment me if you want the instruction!

Oil Dip stick for a4 b8

We all know that b8 has oil readings in the MMI, but sometimes we like to do it with good old method.
Thanks to ECS tuning they made dipstick for b8
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4-FWD-2.0T/Search/06J_115_611_E/ES2093747/

And this is where you put your dipstick